Back to the tallest mountain on earth, this time all the way to the top!
Visiting the Summit of Mauna Kea
I returned on a beautiful day with the sun shining above and only a few clouds drifting across the sky. This time, courtesy of a four-wheel drive vehicle, I was finally making the drive to the summit of Mauna Kea. A four-wheel drive is more than just recommended—it’s essential, especially for the steep downhill descent that can put a serious strain on any vehicle’s braking system.
For the first couple of miles, the road was smoothly paved, but the remaining stretch of about five miles turned into dirt—fairly level, though still rugged enough to remind me why the vehicle was necessary. The entire drive up takes around 30 minutes. Hiking is also an option, though that’s a challenge I wasn’t taking on this time.
Before making the ascent, everyone is required to stop and wait for about 30 minutes at the Visitor Information Station. This isn’t just a suggestion; it’s to help your body acclimate to the elevation. Trust me—you’ll be grateful for it later.
At the Summit
When we arrived, it felt like stepping onto another planet. The summit was dotted with massive telescopes, their futuristic structures rising like giant steel silos against the barren volcanic landscape. The whole scene looked as if it belonged in a Star Wars movie. And then there was the view: endless horizons stretching above the clouds and an atmosphere that felt otherworldly
It was cold—much colder than you’d expect in Hawaiʻi—so warm layers are a must. Walking around, I noticed the thin air right away. A few times I felt light-headed, a reminder of how quickly the elevation could sneak up on you. Taking breaks to sit, breathe, and simply take it all in became part of the experience. Rangers were there monitoring visitors, checking in on people, and ensuring everyone was handling the altitude responsibly.
Facilities were minimal—porta-potties and walking paths—but truly, it wasn’t about amenities. It was about absorbing the moment. When the sun began sinking behind the horizon, painting the sky in a palette of fiery reds and soft purples, I realized why people make the journey up here.
The Descent
Not long after sunset, all visitors are asked to begin their journey back down within about 30 minutes. Going downhill, the key is driving in a low gear rather than relying on the brakes. Overheating is a real danger, and Rangers at the Visitor Center even check brake temperatures upon your return. If they’re too hot, you’ll be pulled aside to let them cool before continuing. Safety always comes first at 13,800 feet.
Stargazing at the Visitor Center
Back at the Visitor Information Station, the experience is far from over. Around 8 p.m., the Rangers host a stargazing talk, using high-powered green lasers to point out constellations while sharing stories and answering questions. For an even more spectacular view, walking a short distance away from the car lights is highly recommended. The stars are brighter here, sharper, and more numerous than most people will ever see in their lives.
If you’ve brought food, this is the perfect time to enjoy it. If you’re on a guided tour, many operators provide dinner here, letting you relax and refuel while the night sky begins to steal the show.
Taking a Tour
For anyone who prefers to sit back and let someone else manage the challenging drive, tours like Nomad Tours are an excellent option. On my visit, they not only handled all the driving but also provided hot chocolate at the summit and a hearty meal once we returned to the Visitor Center. Perhaps the highlight, though, was when Rom, our guide, taught us how to use our iPhones to capture incredible photos of the stars. Yes—you really can take breathtaking shots of constellations with just the device tucked in your pocket.
Visiting Mauna Kea’s summit is unlike anything else on earth. Between the alien-like landscape, the awe-inspiring sunset above the clouds, and one of the most incredible stargazing opportunities on the planet, it’s a truly humbling reminder of just how vast and beautiful our universe is.
