I just got back from a trip to Hilo — some needed business — and since I was already there, I decided to finally check out a cocktail bar I’d been reading about. The Hidden Nene leans fully into the speakeasy concept, tucked into a nondescript location within walking distance of the Hilo Farmer’s Market. Look for the multi-story, faded yellow building with “Silly Goose” painted on it — that’s your landmark. From there, take the stairs down and descend into a cozy, dimly lit lounge with 90s alternative playing softly in the background.

The bar is the clear centerpiece of the room, but a smattering of small tables and banquettes give you plenty of options to settle in. The staff greeted us warmly and handed over menus offering appetizers, sandwiches, soups, and of course, cocktails. The cocktail menu is a pleasure to read on its own — each drink comes with a pen-and-ink rendering alongside its name and description, and the selections are organized by mood and flavor profile: Bright & Effervescent, Floral & Herbal, Tropical & Lush, and more. If none of that helps you decide, the bartenders are happy to guide you.

We tried three cocktails:

The Iwakalua Kumaha (iwakalua kumaha means “24” in Hawaiian) is a rum-based drink featuring carrot and lilikoi juice. It drinks like one of those pressed juice blends you’d grab at a juice bar — but with a very welcome kick.
The Green Negroni delivers that classic bitter backbone with a subtle sweetness from kiwi, and the little green bobas floating in it make it as fun to look at as it is to drink.
The Tarta de Lima is aptly described as a key lime pie in a glass. The coconut-lemongrass whip on top is the difference-maker — don’t skip it.

All three were beautifully presented, well-crafted, and genuinely enjoyable. On the food side, we went with the caviar blinis and the foie gras mousse served with toast points — both excellent pairings for the drinks.

One practical note for anyone driving back over Saddle Road to the leeward side: many of the cocktails can be prepared without alcohol, marked on the menu as NA. A thoughtful touch.

The Hidden Nene has earned a permanent spot on my Hilo itinerary. It harkens back to my time in NYC when I used to love going to PDT, Pegu Club and Employees Only. If you find yourself on that side of the island, make the time — you won’t regret it.

Hidden Nene

Moon & Turtle Hilo